The Turkish coast has changed a lot over the past 10 years. What were once tiny, one-track towns are now large tourist traps full of cheap beer, pedalos and tourists sunning themselves. However, places remain that, while popular, have missed out on the more irksome aspects of mass tourism. Take Kalkan, on the country’s Mediterranean coast and a prime example of a town that has retained its dignity. Although it’s no longer the small fishing village it once was, the cobbled streets...
Neighbourhood Watch: Framlingham, Suffolk
July 11th, 2007
Britain’s market towns have enjoyed a resurgence of interest in recent years. They have a centre, a buzz – and if they’re pretty, in a part of the country with good links to London, you might expect them to be pricey. But a few miles inland from the Suffolk coast, one of the UK’s most attractive market towns is more affordable than you might imagine.
Framlingham is perfectly placed to avoid the summer tourist crush, yet make the best of the Suffolk countryside. With a population of about 3,000, it’s compact enough to retain a village atmosphere, and boasts a medley of architectural styles, from timber-framed cottages to red-bricked Georgian gems and mellow-yellow Victorian houses.
Its dominating features are the impressive curtain-walled castle where Mary Tudor was proclaimed queen, and the 15th-century Church of St Michael that contains the tombs of the powerful Howard family.
The average prices here for family houses are slightly above the national average, but terraced homes offer good value, being generally 10,000 less than the rest of the country. Where Framlingham scores best though is when compared to its coastal neighbours, Aldeburgh and Southwold. There’s up to 175,000 difference between a semi on the coast and the equivalent in Framlingham, despite being only a few miles apart.
There’s no obvious reason for quite such a massive difference – they’re all beautiful towns – but the high percentage of second-home owners on the coast has driven prices up faster than the rest of Suffolk. These seaside towns empty during the week in a way Framlingham doesn’t. The excellent schools, useful shops and busy market ensures that Framlingham has a self-sufficient atmosphere that makes people want to become a part of it.
Your kind of people?
Locals refer to the town as Fram and this pet name is further evidence of their love of the place. Fram attracts families, downsizers, sporadic commuters and a few bolt-hole seekers and it’s this healthy mix that keeps the town bustling. Even by Suffolk’s standards, the locals here are a sophisticated bunch. They get their culture just up the road at the international literary and music festivals of Southwold and Aldeburgh, and cosmopolitan Cambridge is less than an hour’s drive away.
Can you shop ’til you drop?
Fram’s town square, Market Hill, is actually triangular and has held regular markets since 1270. Nowadays, you can buy fresh fish, organic meat and locally produced fruit and veg on Saturdays and Tuesdays. The Crown Hotel strikes an imposing figure on Market Hill and dates back to 1553. Grab a pint and an outside table if you can – it’s the best spot to watch life go by. Good food is to be had at Off The Square and The Station gastropub, while The Dancing Goat Cafй whips up delicious home-made food for people on the go. Hunt out Dix Sept antiques for that choice piece, and there are enough banks, post offices and general shops to prevent any unplanned trips to a soulless shopping mall.
Green & pleasant?
Framlingham is very easy on the eye so strolls around the town are a joy. Framlingham Mere (the local lake) is fed by the tiny river Ore and is a designated nature reserve. Wild flowers are abundant here, as are animals. There are around 80 species of birds and it’s also home to the rare water vole – if you are lucky you may even catch a glimpse of barn owls hunting over the meadows.
Do the schools make the grade?
Some of the best schools in the country are to be found in this area. The private Framlingham College has a serious state contender in Thomas Mills High School, a model comprehensive that has one of the best reputations in Suffolk. Sir Robert Hitcham’s primary school scores well above the national average and Brandeston Hall prep school is also near.
What’s nearby?
The railway at Framlingham was closed in 1952, but a direct service can be picked up from Ipswich which is a 30-minute drive away. More shops can be found at nearby Wickham Market and Woodbridge or for something special, track down the specialist shops at Snape, Southwold or Aldeburgh. Nearby Peasenhall has an amazing deli, Emmett’s, that sells enormous chunks of chocolate. The wilds of Orford Ness have a tranquil beauty and there are country pubs galore in the pretty surrounding villages. Easton Farm Park has cart rides and mini tractors for the kids and seekers of the unusual should check out the Garden Shed Museum at Sweffling.
What can you buy?
New town house - 325,000
A six-year-old town house in the heart of Framlingham has a period look and a modern layout. There are three bedrooms, a 23ft reception and large family kitchen as well as a study and good-sized garden.
Clarke & Simpson: 01728 724 200; www.clarkeandsimpson.co.uk
Chocolate-box thatched cottage - 650,000
As cute as they come, this Grade-II listed house is on the edge of the town with beautiful views. There are five bedrooms and three receptions as well as a cart lodge set in 1.5 acres.
Hamilton Smith: 01728 747 744; www.hamilton-smith.com
Georgian Gem - 1m
A few miles out of Fram is Pound Farm, an early 19th-century farmhouse with a separate three-bedroom cottage, stabling and swimming pool all set in 13 acres. The spacious main house includes four bedrooms and three receptions.
Bidwells: 01473 611 644; www.bidwells.co.uk
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